Fusion Questions & Answers
What is Pre-Bonded Extension Hair?
A compound used to bond the extension hair to the client’s hair has already been applied to the extension hair strands. There is no need to apply glue to the extension strand or the client’s hair before or during the extension service.
Extension hair strands are bonded together by a polymer compound made of a molecular structure of keratin protein of human hair. The bonding compound is completely safe and damage free when applied using the proper techniques.
Pre-bonded hair strands come in two main types of bond shapes: “I” bonds, known more commonly as “ I “ Tips and “U” bonds better known as “Nail” Tips.
“I” tips are most commonly used for Micro-Link and Shrink Tube extension applications. When using these two types of techniques’ the extension strands can be re-used because the bonds remain intact.
“Nail” tips resemble a small fingernail. This type of bond is used with the “Heat Fusion” application and applied with a heat fusion iron.
“Nail” tips can be melted and rolled into an “I” tips if needed.
What Can Cause Fusion Extension Strands To Fall Out?
If the extension hair is attached too close to the scalp it can cause pulling on the scalp which is not only uncomfortable, but can cause the strand to come off of the head along with the natural hair. The strands should be applied no less than ¼” off of the scalp.
Another reason could be that the hair extension strands may not have been attached to a sufficient amount the natural hair. When attaching the extension strand to the natural hair you want to make sure that there is a sufficient amount of natural hair there, too little can cause the weight of the extension hair to put too much stress on the natural hair causing breakage, however, if you attach the extension strand to a strand of natural hair you also risk losing the extension strand because if the natural hair strand is too thick the glue cannot penetrate all of the hair. So how much natural hair should be used? A good rule of thumb is ½ to ¾ of the amount of hair that is on the extension strand.
Why Do Some Bonds Turn White?
This could happen if the bond was not completely melted all the way through the hair, we always recommend that the bond be heated twice so that the glue will thoroughly penetrate the hair.
If the tip of the hair is not completely closed off it can create an air pocket inside the bond, moisture can get into the bond and can cause discoloration.
Salt water and overly chlorinated water is also known to discolor the bonds.
How Do You Remove The Bonds?
The bonds can be removed with acetone or acetone based remover. It is important to wear gloves and to use in a well ventilated area. Add remover to cotton and apply onto the bond, do not saturate the whole head and do not use heat. A clamping link tool may be used to break the bond and allow the remover to penetrate the bond. Allow remover to set on the bond for a few seconds. Split the extension strand in half just below the tip and in an upward motion, continue splitting until the bond breaks apart into two halves, gently pull the extension strand from the natural hair and use a fine tooth comb to comb out any remaining bond residue.
How long will the hair last?
The fusion bonds should remain in your hair with proper care for approx. 3 months before needing to be re-done again. This is based on natural hair growth of ½ inch per month. Once the natural hair starts to grow out the extension bonds will set lower on the head, when they set too low it may be more difficult to maintain them.
Will fusion damage my hair?
No. As long as they are maintained and applied correctly there should be no damage to the natural hair at all.
Micro-Link Questions & Answers
What are Micro-Links?
Micro-Links are derived of copper, magnesium and aluminum alloy. It is important that there are no known allergies to any of these metal types before applying.
Micro-Links are small rings used to attach the extension hair to the natural hair forming a secure hold that will last several months.
Micro-Link Copper Tubes are derived of aluminum alloy, magnesium and a bit more copper than the standard links. To allow the copper rings to be long enough to be used as a tube and about twice the length of a standard ring more copper was added to the tubes allowing them to be more durable and strong enough to hold up against the weight of the natural hair and the extension hair combined.
How are they applied to the hair?
This application involves pulling a strand of natural hair through the micro-link or copper tube, inserting the tip of a pre-tipped hair extension strand and then clamping down on the micro-link or copper tube with a clamping tool. Clamping will create a secure hold that will last for several months. Because the bonds are not melted as with the fusion application the hair may be re-used without having to apply new tips to the extension strands when it is time to re-apply the hair.
Why strands may be slipping out:
This is caused by not pulling enough of the natural hair through the Micro-Link Ring or Copper Tube. The Micro-Link or Copper Tube should be compacted with the extension tip and the natural hair before clamping. If there is not enough natural hair in the link, eventually they may slip due to normal shedding of natural hair.
How often do Micro-Links need to be re-applied?
They should remain in your hair with proper care for approx. 3 months before needing to be re-done again. This is based on natural hair growth of ½ inch per month. Once the natural hair starts to grow out the extension bonds will set lower on the head, when they set too low it may be more difficult to maintain them.
I feel I am pulling enough hair through the link and they are still slipping out! Why?
Micro-Links come in so many styles, sizes and colors that it can be difficult to choose the correct ones for you or your client. Clients with thinner hair may require a smaller size and a client with thick hair may need a larger size. Please see below to help determine the size or style that suits your needs.
3.00mm: Extra small, best used for applying pre-tipped hair with tip sizes less than 2mm.
3.50mm: Small, used to apply with tips sizes 1mm - 2mm. You may find that some 2mm tips do not fit well into the links. This is usually due to the amount of glue at the very end of the extension tip. When the tips are made a little more glue usually sets at the very end of the tip and the tips can be trimmed with your shears by cutting just a little bit of the tip off at a slight angle. Do not cut too much. The amount cut should be equivalent to that of a small childs fingernail clipping. If too much of the tip is cut the hair may shed so it is important to avoid this happening. Once trimmed the tip should slide right into the link with ease.
4.00mm: Medium, This is the most common size used for pre-tipped extension hair with tip size 2mm.
4.50mm: Large, Most often used for persons with very thick or extra curly hair. This size works well with larger extension tips.
Standard Micro-Links are approx. 3mm in length and work well to form a secure hold.
Silicone Lined Links are approx. 3mm in length. The inner diameter of this link is lined with a silicone tubing that works well for clients that have thin or fragile hair. The extra lining helps to compact the hair. The silicone lining can also help prevent slippage which is great for those with fine or thin hair.
Copper Link Tubes are approx. 6mm in length. Because they are longer they are clamped with the clamping tool along more of the length of the extension tip adding more security.
What Color Should I Chose?
It is not necessarily best to choose a link color to match the extension hair color. The objective is to have the links blend in with your hair making them undetectable. The link color may be chosen to match the natural hair color closest to the scalp area so that they may blend better since the links are placed near the scalp.
How Do I Remove The Links?
To remove simply re-shape the link back into an open position with the clamping tool and gently slide the extension strand off of the natural hair.
Yikes! It’s Stuck! How do I remove a stubborn Link?
The micro-link application is great! But, like most hair techniques things happen and this may happen to you. B-E-F-O-R-E you panic and decide to cut the strand out with the natural hair and all, take your clamping tool and continuously clamp around the perimeter of the link ring, clamping repeatedly and on opposite sides of the link will break the link apart.
Please Note: The micro-links do not need to be clamped excessively, once they are clamped they are secure, it is not necessary to clamp them several times flattening them and mashing them into the extension tip, a couple of clamps is all that is needed.
How do I care for the hair?
Prior to application a Clarifying Shampoo should be used to rid the hair of build-up and impurities. after application a gentle shampoo and conditioner should be used. It is best to use a shampoo and conditioner for “Chemically Treated Or Colored Hair”.
Before shampooing the hair should be brushed or combed with a looped bristle extension brush or a wide tooth comb. This will help to avoid tangling. It is important that you shampoo in a downward motion, hair should not be plied on top of the head. Do not sleep on wet hair. It is best to tie the Hair back when sleeping to avoid tangling.
Avoid using products on the scalp area. Most products contain a substantial amount of alcohol or oil in them, this can affect the extension bonds.
Our hair is 100% Human Remy Hair and can be styled as your own hair. We recommend that a spray Conditioner or Detangler be used off of the scalp to help replace the natural oils your extension hair can no longer produce, keeping the hair looking healthy.
Recommended Products:
Dream Spray Conditioning Detangler (Offered on our website)
Joico, Bain De Terre, Aveda Reconstructing, Abba Moisture Sensation, Alterna
Goldwell Hydrating, Paul Mitchell Super Charged Conditioner
Tools Question & Answers
What does a wire threader do?
The wire threader saves a lot of time by allowing you to load 25 to 30 micro-links onto the threader. Add the links onto the threader, place the top of the threader near the section of hair you are working with, there is a loop at the top of the threader above the micro-links that have been loaded onto the threader, under the loop you will have a small opening, use a needle hook or the tail end of a rat-tail comb and lift a small strand of hair from the head and pull it through the opening of the threader.
Once the natural hair strand is pulled through the opening pull the threader slightly downward as you push the micro-link ring off of the threader and onto the hair, this will pull the natural hair all the way through the micro-link ring and place it onto the natural hair strand.
This does take a small amount of practice but after just a few strands you will see that this tool can actually save you quite a bit of time. We offer a wood handled wire threader and a silver metal wire threader on our website.
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What are Re-bonds?
Re-bonds are keratin glue pieces used for Direct Strand Application or for Pre-tipping and Re-tipping extension hair. We offer Re-bonds available In Black, Brown And Amber-Clear on our website.
What Method Is Best For Pre-Tipping or Re-Tipping Extension Hair?
Although Re-bonds work very well for tipping extension hair there are other methods that work well too.
A glue gun with glue sticks may be used for direct application of the extension hair to the natural hair or for making hair extension tips. To make tips using a glue gun heat the glue gun, hold the extension hair in front of you and apply a line of glue approx. ½ inch long working upward to the very ends of the hair strand. Use the nozzle of the glue gun to push the glue into the extension hair making sure to saturate all of the hair strands with glue. When the glue has cooled to the touch simply roll the glue between your thumb and forefinger shaping the extension tip. After you have completed making all of the hair strands you may go back to them and trim the ends of the tips making them all uniform in length.
To make tips with a glue pot melt the glue in the pot using glue granules or glue sticks. Glue sticks may be used in the glue pot by cutting the sticks. Two 4 inch glue sticks is the equivalent of 2 ounces of glue. Dip the extension strand into the hot glue, excess glue may be removed by wiping the extension hair against the inner sides of the glue pot. A small wooden spatula may also be used to help spread the glue throughout the hair making sure that it is well saturated. When the glue has cooled to the touch, roll the glue between your thumb and forefinger shaping the extension tip. After you have completed making all of the hair strands you may go back to them and trim the ends of the tips making them all uniform in length.
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